Originally written for PLAYBOY/Germany 2001
Copyright © 2001-2005, thomas&co. All rights reserved
By Thomas&co
Now that’s a good question. It occurred to me when I had a recent conversation with my fundamentally zealot of a minister father. Don’t get me wrong, he’s a great man. I just always feel about five years old when I speak to him, which can be a terribly frightening thing when a man feels his testicles regress so rapidly. Thinking I had already mentioned it, I made a passing statement about my upcoming trip to Brazil – the second in as many months. “BRAZIL?! Weren’t you just there?” booms my father. “yes”(meek reply). “Why are you going back to Brazil?” (Why aren’t we all?, I think.) “To see my friends,” and then, trying to sound innocently cheerful, “It’s Carnival.” “CARNIVAL?! I saw all about CARNIVAL on TV the other night. That’s where you SIN as much as you can before … what’s it called?” “Lent,” I add. (Fundamentalists don’t know jack about Catholics.) “Lent. And what are you going to do down there?” (Brain working fast because he’s absolutely right) ‘Visit my friends. Not everybody parties. We’ll probably just hang out at the beach, away from all the fun … er, um, action.”
Did I mention that I’m 30? Now that I have my balls back and am comfortably sitting at my own desk, pecking at my own laptop, in my own cyber-fitted apartment in New York – Brazil still a wet kiss on my ... I mean, a fresh memory – I recall this conversation with my father and really put my hands in it. He may be from the barbed wire line of thought, but he’s still a great thinker. At this point I’d like to invite you to pull out your trusty, dusty dictionary and follow along. I’m looking in Webster’s New Universal Unabridged if you care.
We begin our study with the basics. Say the word “Carnival.” (Much better if said with a Brazilian accent.) Let it roll around in your mouth. You will start to salivate, so spit it out. Now look at it. Look at its plump fleshiness. Its corpulent, yet turgid lines. See its slick wetness glistening? In a word, delectable – so gluttonous, so pansexual, so Old World, so fun. If you scan through the words that even remotely relate to it in your dictionary, you’ll find the common thread: flesh. And that’s what Carnival specializes in: flesh. Ironically, The Oxford Dictionary of the Christian Church defines the etymology of the word Carnival as caro vale – ‘goodbye flesh,’ and carnem levare – ‘to put away flesh-meat.’ Since one was required to put away all things of the flesh during Lent, the idea was to do anything one wanted, and as much of it as one could, in a sort of flesh abuse. Not surprisingly, early pre-Lent festivities degenerated into such rioting (read: kick-ass parties), that the Church excommunicated the word to secular celebrations. However, the RCC (Roman Catholic Church) does not hold nascent title to Carnival, but I’ll give you a clue: it runs in the family. Yes, it turns out that Great-Grandfather Carnival was himself, Italian. The Saturnalia, a December celebration for the Roman god Saturn, was a full-blown orgy. His Greek cousin Bacchus, the god of wine, was in charge of the drinks. Is it any wonder we wake up on Sunday morning with a hangover and a stranger? Saturday is named after Great-Grandpa Saturn, the old devil.
But back to Carnival. Here’s a quick rundown of its beginnings in Brazil. Coming from Portugal, it was deeply influenced by everything European, sophisticated, and luxurious, and in the 1850’s had two distinct celebrations: the Ballroom Carnival and the Street Carnival. Whites and middle-class Mulattos celebrated in-doors, while anyone darker than that hit the streets. May the best party win! Since Carnival is now celebrated outdoors, who said blondes have more fun? By the 1880’s, the ballroom parties were trying to out-do one another in their finery. The street parties were just having fun. Okay, enough academics – fast-forward. The two commingle and voila: Samba schools; sparkling, plumed and naked bodies; floats that appear to be their own country; more inebriated fun than you can possibly imagine with hundreds of thousands of your closest friends.
Let’s get down to testimonials. I’ll start. “Hi. My name is Thomas and I went to Carnival.” To be precise, I should mention that I went to Salvador, also known as Bahia, and not to Rio. Bahia is to Brazil what New Orleans is to the US. It is very African influenced, rich in music and culture, and people flock to its sultry, bodacious revelry. It’s no secret – Brazilians themselves attest – that Bahia has the best Carnival. The first thing that hits you when you get off the plane is, “Oh my God, it’s hot!” Not a bad heat, but rather, that good, sticky heat that melts your memory and obligations, making you suddenly aware of your “nether regions.” Everyone has a permanent sweat-bead moustache, and skin truly glistens. Even this seems to engender a familial camaraderie, for which Bahianos are famous. After the heat, then you meet the soothing, singsong rhythm of the Bahian accent. Their Portuguese slides into your ears like a warm, healing oil, and it stays there, blocking out anal-retentive thoughts of home/New York. After you marinate in this concoction for a day or two, plus daily doses of Caipirinhas (sugar cane alcohol[Cachaça] and freshly squeezed limes), you should be nice and tenderized for the full experience. No reservations. Guards down. And for heaven’s sake, slow down!
Since this was not my first time in Brazil, I was on the fast track to adjusting from a very cold New York winter, to paradise. My weeks of studying Portuguese only helped, and before you could say “Carmen Miranda,” I was ready. To begin, there is an air of shared celebration during Carnival that I can only compare to: a) the last day of school; b) World Soccer, minus the overtones of war; or c) the end of WWII. It’s like Munchkinland or OZ, but with Jane Fonda, as Barbarella, doing the choreography. Everybody likes you and wants you to have a good time, everybody smiles and all the girls try to say hello – more like, “You are so beautiful. You are German… English… Oh! Americano. I love ______ “(fill in matching country). I never knew the value of my blue eyes until I went to Brazil. It’s merely cream on top that I find dark features so devastating. One even begins to feel like a, dare I say it, stud? So this is what celebrities feel like. Ah, the rush of being desired. I think how sterile New York’s pumping nightlife suddenly seems.
After resting from the 11-hour flight, via Sao Paolo, and greeting my friends, the first two days are consumed with aimless meandering. I fortify myself with fresh juices and Acarajé – a fried black-eyed pea meal (as in corn meal), stuffed with a mix of okra, fresh salsa, spicy shrimp (with shells), and a couple of special sauces. Heaven! The large, black women dressed all in white, cotton dresses and turbans only make the experience more delicious.

I am at home here, but thank God they don’t know me, because the things I am about to do are fodder for a “Dear Penthouse” letter. I’ll only hit the highlights and save the gory details for my masturbatory solitude.
In the Parade: My friends had secured for me entrance into a bloco, or Bahian version of Rio’s Samba schools, sans Samba school. How about a giant, lighted and decorated 18-wheeler-sized truck, called a trio electrico, with a popular singer and band perched on top? We were in Margareth Menezes’ parade. The bloco moves through the streets, music blaring from 18-wheeler-sized speakers, while the paid members with wristbands (us), surround the truck in a rope-enclosed group. Our duty was to drink, dance, jump, fly into each other’s arms and sing like carousing soldiers, eye all the beautiful (and not so beautiful) girls, drink … well, I guess that’s about all; but when I tell you it was the single most fun event of my life, trust me. It’s like skydiving on the ground.

A free-fall in fun. How do you explain that? By the end of the night, I had wished for everyone I loved to experience this at least once, taken countless, worthless pictures, and ended up walking home at 8 a.m. with one super hottie, where we… [text deleted]. I swear, it was like being in a porn movie.
Street Carnival: If I had been alive back in the 1850’s, I would have been on the street with all the saucy, darker hues. Forget a ballroom full of stuffed and girded light-skinned clones. Give me liberty… and a sweating, writhing, pulsating mass. Sound sexual? It is. When I look back on it, I can’t believe I was able to navigate those streets, let alone find people and locations, but magic exists there, and good luck floats in the air. Days before Carnival begins, the city builds wooden walls along the street, protecting businesses from the fun. In essence, they had constructed a nice, outdoor maze of party rooms. Small food/drink stands quickly pop up, and sell ice-cold beer (.50 cents), harder drinks ($1), freshly barbecued meat and cheese skewers (.50 cents), and Acarajé is always available for a paltry .75 cents. The real investment of the night is “Red Bull,” a high-octane caffeine soda ($2.50), which keeps you going till sun up. Are you adding this in your head? I won’t be able to buy a $20 drink in New York again without serious insult to my conscience. I would not be honest if I did not report that countless drugs are consumed as well, but quite frankly, who needs them? Usually the younger kids, but for me they would have dulled the experience. I mean, really, how much fun can a guy have and still expect to wake up the next day?
So in this scene, established centuries earlier in ancient Rome, one feels connected to life in a way that cannot be truly explained, only experienced. Every body is available for exploration. When walking through the crowd, anonymous, migrating hands feel your glory and assets with appreciative and hungry lust. Who cares who it is? That’s not the point. It’s a celebration of the flesh. Eyes lock, mouths open and smile, tongues twirl, and then there’s the next. Always the next. Don’t expect commitment. Anything goes and all is forgiven later, so for now, immerse yourself in the brimming pool. Drink in the sweet nectars and musky aromas. For Brazilian women, the derriere is their prized asset (pun intended), and it is accentuated, shaken, rolled, exposed, and relished by all, especially the men. The Brazilian bikini, famous around the world, is designed for this sole purpose. I, myself, easily readjust my sexual focus from the breasts (the American obsession) to the tush. I even begin a search to find the biggest, roundest, bubble-butt imaginable. I found it, but that leads me to my next category.

VIP Party:
Now, I had the best of both worlds. I failed to mention that my Brazilian friends were famous actors there, so we had VIP entrance into the Camarote, or private industry party, of Daniela Mercury – another famous singer. Inside, we were treated to an endless flow of beer and whiskey, every delicious food imaginable, world class DJ’s, and free product give-aways from sponsors, all the while rubbing elbows with the likes of Caetano Veloso and other Brazilian celebs. But so what. The real party was out on the street. I don’t mean to seem ungracious, but I took full advantage of the party’s food and drinks, and then split to be with my lower class chums. However, on one of my returns to the VIP party to restock on drinks, I tripped, and literally fell into the lap of a scintillating young woman. Lest you think I injured her, she is as tall as I am and possesses more handsome beauty than delicate. A sturdy gal. A true Bahiana (African ancestors), we were both instantly smitten with one another. Again, I have no way of explaining what happened in that moment because I’ve never had the experience at home and don’t feel English words would suffice. Just know, it was very Brazilian. So, after whatever happened, happened, we were joined at the hip like best friends, felt like old lovers, and couldn’t keep our hands, or mouths, off of each other (we were chided by security three times). Needless to say, I was back at that party every night thereafter and we acted like fools in love. But don’t forget, it was Carnival. She knew it, I knew it. I hate good-byes, so on my last night, I simply said I’d had a great time. She had too. I later found out she was a famous stage actress. I hope I didn’t cause too much of a scandal for her. Truthfully, I was probably just an American playtoy, a mere afterthought, but a scandal is nice to imagine. By the way, she had the biggest, roundest, bubble-butt imaginable. Perfection.
So there you have it. Carnival. I can’t believe it was merely a month ago that I was there, and now I feel kind of PO’d that it’s over. I hate that I’m losing my tan. I hate that I’m beginning to feel like a New Yorker again. I hate that I enjoy my job and really like living here. I hate that I have nothing to show for my experience except some crappy photos. But, that’s life. I’m back to worrying about the stock market, my mortgage, what I will do this summer; you know, drivel. I shouldn’t focus on the negatives, however. I do have my memories, a great Brazilian music collection, and fresh limes and Cachaça (for making Caipirinhas). What more could a man ask for? After all, there’s always next year. And to answer my original question: What’s so carnal about Carnival? Everything.
